Big Chief restaurant’s new incarnation

Joe Bonwich of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch reviewed B. Donovan’s, the former Big Chief restaurant at 17352 Manchester Road (Route 66) in Wildwood, Mo., that has been extensively refurbished and reopened.

The Big Chief’s presence on the Mother Road dates to the 1930s.

It’s a somewhat mixed review, with Bonwich remarking that the restaurant is mostly “putting its history behind it” and its “clunky” service. But the portions are big for the price (most entrees are under $15), and the chef has some interesting ideas with preparing the ribs and wings.

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