Lunchtime at Wrink’s Market

On Friday, I paid a lunchtime visit to the newly resurrected Route 66 icon, Wrink’s Market of Lebanon, Mo.

Even though longtime Route 66 aficionados will see changes in Wrink’s that indicate the convenience store remains a work in progress, I noticed two things that should gladden their hearts:

  • Terry Wrinkle, one of the sons of longtime Wrink’s operater Glenn Wrinkle, has carried on his father’s gift of gab. This is not a criticism.
  • Wrink’s is again making sandwiches the old-fashioned way — only when they are ordered, and with fresh ingredients.

One thing veteran Route 66 travelers will notice is a new marquee above the original metal awning, adding “Historic” to the “Wrink’s Market” sign. A new Route 66 shield also is prominent. Although the architectural neon lights have been repaired, the original “Market” neon sign was regrettably sold at auction shortly after Glenn Wrinkle’s death at age 82 in 2005.

Inside, past shelves of snacks and a large cooler full of soft drinks, was the new deli area. I was pleased to see locals chatting as much as eating. Route 66 author Michael Wallis fondly calls these “liars’ tables.”

Deli manager Vicki was busy making sandwiches for the lunchtime crowd. You fill out a form checking off the meat, condiments, cheese and bread you want in your sandwich. One good sign was that she wrapped the to-go sandwiches in paper, not plastic.

There are seven types of meat available, including liver cheese and pickle loaf. And yes, the list includes radio host Paul Harvey’s favorite from Wrink’s, bologna.

The long list of condiments includes both mayonnaise and Miracle Whip (sandwich buffs know the difference), along with tomato and the uncommonly seen bread-and-butter pickles.

By the way, Terry Wrinkle buys his tomatoes from local farmers, like his dad did. That’s why the tomatoes have so much flavor, unlike supermarket tomatoes.

I ordered the 99-cent special — chopped ham sandwich with tomato, mayo and bread-and-butter pickles on wheat bread.

The sandwich was juicy and tasty. It reminded me of the hand-crafted sandwiches at Eisler Bros. Store in Riverton, Kan. It seems simple. But a freshly made sandwich will hands-down beat a sandwich that sits for hours in a refrigerator case.

Although hoagie buns and Texas toast are available, Terry Wrinkle says most locals stick with the white or wheat bread.

“We tried to do some things differently, but people like the way he (Glenn Wrinkle) did it,” he said.

“And that’s what we’re doing now.”

Many of the store’s old coolers and freezers are gone, simply because they were shot, Terry Wrinkle says. One of them left “an inch of rust” when it was removed.

But he’s busy trying to transform Wrink’s into sort of a local history museum. These photos shown below are on the beverages cooler, and Terry Wrinkle vows to cover the entire cooler with them.

Plenty of other memorabilia, brought in by longtime customers or from the Wrinkle family collection, eventually will be displayed.

There’s room for new stuff, too. These T-shirts and ball caps feature the new Wrink’s logo, drawn by Terry Wrinkle himself. T-shirts are priced at $9.99.

On the original counter where his dad once sat is a guest book. Wrink’s reopened less than two weeks ago, but the book already contains signatures of travelers from Illinois, Ohio, California, Washington, Florida, Michigan and El Salvador.

Terry Wrinkle worked for his father beginning at age 4. He’ll draw from those experiences, plus working for three years at QuikTrip in Kansas City, to keep Wrink’s running smoothly and profitably.

Storytelling ability must be passed on genetically. Like his father, Terry Wrinkle spun dozens of yarns while I was there. Ask him about the 180,000 pennies he found in the store. Ask him about his father’s football prowess. Ask him about the pranks that he and his dad pulled on longtime customers. Ask him about the giant cigarette lighter on the counter.

Shortly after his father’s death, two women rented the Wrink’s building for two years but never reopened it. The two eventually were evicted. During an auction to liquidate their inventory, Terry Wrinkle said he got the itch to reopen Wrink’s himself.

“During the auction, I saw a lot of people and saw the place come alive a little bit,” he said. “I wanted to see it run. I didn’t want to see it die again.”

We briefly stopped our conversation so Terry Wrinkle could conduct a transaction with a customer.

“Thanks for coming here,” Terry Wrinkle said when he handed him his change.

“I’m glad you’re here,” the man said.

I and many other Route 66ers agree.

(Wrink’s Market, at 135 Wrinkle Ave. in Lebanon, Mo., is open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. every day but Sunday. Its phone number is 417-588-8966.)

10 thoughts on “Lunchtime at Wrink’s Market

  1. Ron – Great report! Great photos…the sandwich lots good enough to reach into the screen to steal a bite. Much success to Terry and keep on keeping on with the tradition.

  2. Hey Ron,
    The stories & the pics you put up were fantastic. It makes me feel like I was there myself. I am going to be at the “Grand Re- Opening” on Sept. 1st to see the place for myself. I will then show Terry the tattoo of “Wrink’s Market” that I have on my back.

  3. We recently stopped in as well. Wish we had thought to grab a sandwich to go, it was early morning, and we took Riah in to look around and he bought of all things, a Starbucks Vanilla drink from the cooler! (Not the most nostalgic choice, but sometimes on a roadtrip you let the eight year old pick something to keep him happy while driving!) We found Terry to be very polite as well and enjoyed our brief but memorable visit. Nice story Ron!

  4. Great report Ron, thanks. Now only if somebody would post some night shots with the neon lit. “Liar’s Tables”? Hmm, sounds familiar.
    Just (not 15 minutes ago) finished reading Wallis’ book on the Lincoln.
    I smell another road trip.

  5. Ron:

    Just wanted to let you know that Terry’s business is growing everyday! It is very exciting! He was “slammed” today and still is not home! ha!(Friday, August 17) His birthday was yesterday and I do not think that I have seen him this happy in the 27 years that I have known him!

    Thanks for the wonderful article and thanks for visiting with him.

    Our Grand Opening is still scheduled for September 1. We will also have a Chamber of Commerce Ribbon Cutting Ceremony on Thursday, August 23, at 4:30 pm.

    Cheryl Wrinkle(Terry’s wife)

  6. I would love to stop in sometime. I live in Marshfield. I was watching a game show the other night, the Match Game with Gene Rayburn. There was an older gentleman by the name of Leslie Wrinkle. He was from Lebanon, MO. He told Gene Rayburn that he had a daughter that was also named Leslie and that she was married to Wyatt Earp. He wasn’t kidding! Was it maybe a high school boy? Anyway, I was just wondering if you are related to this man. Also, is your family maybe related to the Earp’s. I still have the video.

  7. I , too, remember the store but from a family view. Glenn Wrinkle was my uncle and every summer, I would spend hours sitting on the steps to the basement, drinking Dr Pepper or Mt.Dew and reading comic books. Uncle Glenn was always there alone with Florine, and I cannot remember one time being told to leave or be quiet. It was always cool in the store and had the most wonderful smell. I have not been back in many years but I still think of him and the store, along with my family , often. It was a long way from New York but it was like home.
    It would be sad now to go back and not see the carts of watermelons or the soda machine. Or Glenn walking about. Or even the fireworks stand before the 4th. Glenn, I am sure knew we used to hide some of the best rockets for ourselves!!!!

    Tell Chris, Eddie, Rod, Tommy, I send my love,
    Linda

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